Taste Buds
Critic vs. Restaurateur
What happens when a restaurant owner sits down with the critic she blames for killing her business?
July 18, 2018

What happens when a restaurant owner sits down with the critic she blames for killing her business?

Jen Agg is Canada’s top restaurateur. Chris Nuttall-Smith is Canada’s top critic. And Jen has not forgotten Chris’s 2012 review of her beloved restaurant Raw Bar (he described the food as “awful”).

The two sit down with host Corey Mintz for dinner at The Black Hoof — Jen’s trend-setting and much-imitated restaurant, which is closing after a decade to argue over whether critics matter anymore.

 

Jen Agg is the owner of The Black Hoof, Rhum Corner, Cocktail Bar, and Grey Gardens, as well as the author of the memoir I Hear She’s a Real Bitch.

Chris Nuttall-Smith is the editor-in-chief of the recently launched review website The Taster

Read Corey’s original review of the Hoof here. “That review was a big deal,” says Jen. “But at that time, reviews mattered. I don’t know that that’s true anymore.” And Nuttsy’s review of Raw Bar. “When Chris reviewed Raw Bar, that was like a death knell for the business.”

Illustration by Dmitry Bondarenko.

Taste Buds is sponsored by Foodora, Canada’s #1 food delivery app.

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